Dynamic Days in the Desert: Scottsdale, AZ

Scottsdale’s Sweet Spots

Scottsdale, Arizona is more dynamic than its mainstream reputation might suggest. It is highly touted for its golf courses, sprawling spa resorts, high-end shops, and a lofty real estate market. And the city’s ubiquitous desert landscape makes for soothing picture-perfect sunsets while dining or out on a nature hike, of course.

Scottsdale also has a well-established, ever-evolving foodie scene, serving up a variety of tastes for a variety of budgets. And I wouldn’t underestimate the local wines, either. With a long tradition of being supportive of the arts community, dining & regional Arizona wines pairs quite well with the popular Art Walks.

Actually, the town’s broad-spanning art offerings have long held tight to cultural heritage and abundant local initiatives. Scottsdale touts galleries galore and then some in the realm of world-class museums, like the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art.

Plus, being loosely established beginning in 1894, Scottsdale possesses an easy-going charm with its plentiful Western nostalgia.

Weather-wise, Scottsdale has a couple of sweet spots, with mid-fall and early spring being ideal times to visit. The main airport hub in neighboring Phoenix opens the door to creative easy-access options, even if that’s in the shape of a three-day getaway, like my Scottsdale rendezvous.

That Valley Ho Flair

Hotel Valley Ho is a true nostalgic symbol located in convenient Downtown Scottsdale. Recently restored to its 1956 mid-modern architectural splendor, the hotel once served as a hideaway of sorts for many of the era’s Hollywood stars like Monroe, Bogart, and Crosby. Jimmy Durante was known to play a late-night impromptu number on the piano in the lounge.

The hotel’s name was inspired by its proximity to Paradise Valley. This landmark four-star resort is one of the most notable in the world of architectural preservation. And there is nothing ho-hum about it.

At sunset, I approached Hotel Valley Ho as its distinctive baby blue neon lights popped on, amplifying its allure. There are not many structures in Scottsdale that have this height, rivaling the towering palm trees. Valley Ho’s seven-story tower houses a variety of suites and residences. I was fortunate enough to upgrade to one of those swanky mod suites which were well-equipped with amenities to cater a private party of my own. If only I had known! I was also hoping to indulge in the VH Spa wellness, but next time.

There was no shortage of personality once entering the minimalistic but stylized interior. The airy reception space with its 1950s modish southwestern flair flowed into the chic ZuZu Lounge where guests were gathering for happy hour and lite bites. From the lounge, we would later find ample access to the open-air OH Pool. There, a slew of cabanas, lounge chairs, and umbrella-ed areas played host to youthful beach bods basking in late summer revelry as the DJ got his grooves on.

The wildly popular hotel hosts a variety of events throughout the year, but later that night, the pool had a more serene atmosphere with cool ambient lighting. We waded, sipping wine under the stars. I recommend making a reservation for the Valley Ho Magical History Tour with concierge extraordinaire, Ace Baliey.

Foodie Paradise

Scottsdale boasts over a hundred restaurants. My local friend, Christina, had some suggestions, but I had some recommendations to throw into the mix, too. FnB became one of our new favorites. The place had gotten raves from foodies near and far since its opening in 2009. We were stoked to try it.

Located in the glowing atmosphere of historic Craftsman Court, an idyllic area with elegant art galleries and shops, Christina and I were immediately welcomed there with warm hospitality.

The ambiance was cozy with the warm gentle breeze and candlelight while wafting aromas seduced us from the partially open kitchen as we began our meal. One dish was more satisfying than the next, and we shared each until the last bite of panna cotta.

With FnB’s seasonal menu that champions local wines in such ways that have earned award-winning Chef Charleen Badman honors from the James Beard Foundation, it was an ideal place to get a well-rounded taste of local ingredients and thoughtful, modern creations from a top chef. It’s the kind of food that makes you feel good. Reservations are recommended. 

I built up an appetite during a delightful afternoon touring iconic Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin West, a well-known “must-do” while exploring Scottsdale. Christina and I were soon swept up in very good hands during another dining highlight. This time, at Hearth ’61.

Located in Mountain Shadows Spa & Resort in remote Paradise Valley, our timing was right to catch a stellar view of Camelback Mountain glowing in one of those gorgeous Scottsdale sunsets from one of Mountain Shadows’ terraces.

The service at Hearth ’61 was a notable element that contributed highly to a very delightful experience. With a menu of craft cocktail offerings to whet our whistles to begin, we sipped our Blood Orange Blossoms and started on the tender English Pea tortellini.

Adhering to an inspired seasonal menu of modern American cuisine that features local ingredients, Chef de Cuisine Yulissa Acosta’s predominantly traditional menu accommodated our non-traditional diets as vegetarians. Each dish was complimented with thoughtful wine pairings from a global collection. A delicious pleasure.

Scottsdale is for Wine Lovers

Chef Gio Osso’s brand-spanking-new Piccolo Virtù made for an elegantly simple old-world Italian atmosphere for exceptional wines and shareable bites. Having gotten a sneak preview tasting recently due to all the buzz around its opening, some friends and I capped off a night there, being well taken care of by passionate Osso, finishing with flourless dark chocolate i dolci.

Looking out from the edge of Piccolo’s inviting courtyard, the atmosphere added an elevated, but unpretentious vibe to nostalgic Old Town Scottsdale, as much as I enjoy ole Rusty Spurs Saloon nearby, too. And it was just a stroll away from Valley Ho beneath Scottsdale’s classic 19th-century olive trees.

If you do Scottsdale’s wine trail, like we naturally did, you’ll find yourself by the Waterfront experiencing the burgeoning canal scene. Recently grown to become one of the real hot spots in Scottsdale, the area reveals the sophisticated but casual lifestyle of Scottsdale with an array of boutiques, stylish restaurants, a little bourgeoisie vibe, and plentiful festivals. Christina and I meandered in and out of shops while doing some wine tastings, eventually going well into the happiest of hours at LDV’s Wine Tasting Room.       

Museums Uncommon

Museum of Musical Instruments? I’ve heard from quite a few in response to describing an unexpected museum experience I had. Yes, that exists. And it’s an experience that you should definitely add to the itinerary next time.

Located more in Phoenix proper than in Scottsdale, the museum quickly led me on a very immersive deep dive into the global musical culture by way of exhibits featuring a massive range of genres. Running a gamut from primitive to contemporary subjects, an expansive array of multimedia galleries, experiential exploration, and historical trivia fleshed out the world of music by way of some 15,000 musical instruments & objects. And 200 plus countries and regions are explored.

It was an unexpectedly gratifying full day at MIM, listening to examples of music from ethnic to folk to swing, to rock & roll and beyond. Accompanying artifacts contextualized the exhibits in fun and interesting ways. Getting to see the automaton organs and giving a go at banging the gong …fascinating stuff. Thankfully there was a café there for us to do a reset in between sets! The museum is so dynamic that I am not sure a quick overview does it justice, frankly. Go, enjoy it for yourself!

A Smithsonian Affiliate that opened in 2015, Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West is located in Old Town Scottsdale, just ten minutes from Hotel Valley Ho. It is built on the historic site of Loloma Transit Station on N Marshall Way, where ample boutiques also now stand.

Bestowing visitors with a focused but diverse perspective on Western culture, the two-story, 43,000-square-foot museum offers an edifying experience of the American West, including Western Canada, and Mexico.

From well-preserved Navajo blankets to a considerable collection of fun Old West cowboy gear, there are also social media photo ops for some levity aling the way. Christina and I got a bit caught up in the Western Spirit Trail 3D illusion mural.

Adding dimension to the Old West throughout, the museum’s concept was provocative, for sure. We wandered Paul Calle’s Western retrospective of the artist’s collection depicting mountain men and a variety of masculine Western characters spotlighting major archetypes of Western life.

Western Spirit’s vision and mission is to “Celebrate the West …as reflected by the arts and the dynamic cultural exchanges that have marked the transition of the Old West into the New West.”

The museum weaves a variety of contextualized tales unique to American history and culture, connecting its visitors to it. Its uniqueness is what makes the museum special.

Oasis Beyond the Museum

Scottsdale has a long history of being a community that nurtures artists, writers, performers, and even wellness advocates. Out of this spirit of celebrating creatives grew historic Cattle Track Arts & Preservation, one of Scottsdale’s hidden treasures that exist under the radar of many locals.

Inconspicuously located beyond the wild brush on Cattle Track Road, just minutes from Downtown Scottsdale, this oasis has been instrumental in cultivating and nurturing a wide diversity of creative talents from near and far.

The unique compound dates back to the 1930s as an immersive haven of support for dedicated artists whether painters, photographers, writers, musicians, or any variety of fine arts craftspeople. The organization provides an environment for an individual to hone in and focus on their work. It also offers opportunities for its artist members to exhibit and present these eclectic works to the public.

 “Sculptor Louise Nevelson and Philip C. Curtis are among Cattle Track’s famous artists-in-residence. A renowned local dean of art, Curtis went on to found the Phoenix Art Museum,” artist Mark McDowell informed me on a tour.

I admit, Mark’s suggestion that I’d be a good candidate to apply for Cattle Track residency to focus on a couple of projects sounded tempting. The energy there was indeed inspiring.

What in the World of Cosanti

From afar, it intrigued me as some odd-looking landscape in the desert, evoking something both primitive and futuristic. As I got closer up in the Cosanti compound, walking slowly beneath the blazing sun, I approached a concrete yurt-like structure.

I intently watched the men, sweaty and flushed in their headgear and long thick gloves huddling around as one of them wielded neon orange, molten liquid copper pouring ever so carefully into a mold. The heat emanated.

Steps away, two hyper-focused workmen in heavy aprons with a six-foot metal claw carried something from a radiating kiln that had just burst with flames between the legs of one of them, causing our guide, Mary, to gasp. He was unscathed; cool as a cucumber, regardless. This is just a day in the life of a foundry craftsman at Cosanti making bronze bells and sculptures for some kind of interesting project.

Cosanti is another Scottsdale treasure, serving as a harbor for artists and craftsmen that’s often under the radar. It was founded by experimental Italian-born architect Paolo Soleri in the 1950s and served as the location, or outdoor studio, for his creations of progressive, other-worldly, yet earthy and cavernous, conceptual concrete dwellings. They are sometimes described as being built from the roof down.

An architect, philosopher, and urban designer, Soleri, studied with architect Frank Lloyd Wright in Arizona just ten years before embarking on Cosanti which was created as a radical social critique against consumerism to provoke the idea of balance with nature.

“Soleri left the Cosanti site in 1970 for a new project seventy miles north of here called Arcosanti which combined architecture  and ecology. He called it “arcology” and from there grew Arcosanti where his ideas really flourished,” Cosanti coordinator, Mary Hoadley, explained on site.

Cosanti is listed in Arizona’s Registry of Historic Places and now serves artists and craftsmen as a studio with the Soleri Foundation. Those aforementioned bronze wind bells that are made using one of thirty-two original Soleri bell patterns are famous around the globe, serving as a symbol of Soleri’s visionary ideas. There is a good chance you’ve seen them. Tours of the Cosanti are offered at no fee.

Resources: Experience Scottsdale